Sunday, 25 September 2016

Camp Minnesing - Burnt Island Lake - Agonquin Park



My Trip to Burnt Island Lake and Camp Mimmesing

A new resort affiliated with the Highland Inn opened on Burnt Island Lake by the name of Camp Mimmesing. (1913)



It was 1957, when days, weeks and summer vacations lasted forever.   I was at summer camp and we were preparing for our first Canoe Trip to Burnt Island Lake.   Through the eyes if a child, the name "Burnt Island" brought to mind images of a desolate and dreary looking gray lake surface dotted here and there with islands, sparsely covered with bone like fingers of burnt and blackened deadfall.   My childhood imagination mixed this desolate scene with jutting sporadic gray rock face, cracked by the heat of fires long since passed.   My five bunkmates and I could not begin to understand why we were going to such a place.

Our Councilor had provided each of us with a large khaki knapsack.   With his help and the aid of the two assigned C.I.T.s (Councilor in training), we individually put our clothing for the three-day canoe trip loosely into these big packs. Once packed, we each slipped into our assigned knapsack and headed off. This was was going to easy we thought, as we ran laughing and jumping with these virtually empty packs strapped across our backs on our way to the outfitting place. Canoe tripping is going to be easy.

We were going to the outfitting building just past the massive structure that made up the main dining hall and then along the camp access road to the first building on the left. The lake formed a outlet here where the water, went under a little bridge and right up to a dock at the edge of the building. The councilor and C.I.T.s dropped their packs at the edge of the entrance and told us to do the same.  As we waited the three of them crossed the road to where all the tripping canoes were stacked resting on their gunnels on “T” like posts off the ground. These canoes were special and were 17 feet long. The canoes that we paddled at the camp each day were 15-foot and 16-foot canoes and were not suitable for canoe trips. The three of them individually lifted and examined several canoes before making a choice.  They helped each other lift them off the storage posts and rested each canoe upright on the ground. Once completed each one then rested their chosen individual canoe across their bent knees and then rocked the canoe up and over their head, once balanced each carried their canoe over to the outfitting building and placed them side by side next to the dock area.   

The packs were made of greenish brown canvas material that smelled musty and a bit like old car oil.   It was the waterproofing oil that had been applied and reapplied throughout the years.  Each pack had a large flap at the top with two straps sewn one on to each side of the lower edge. These connected into two corresponding belt-type buckles located on the lower half of the back of each packsack.   Under this large top flap were two smaller flaps that met in the middle and had leather thongs attached to each.   These were then tied together before the larger flap was secured over top. This double flap system helped provide some flotation when and if required. There were three broad thick leather straps configured below the flaps on one side.   These were positioned as two parallel supple straps, laid side by side, made to go over each shoulder. The third was attached at right angles to these and it was made differently, being quite wide in the middle. The ends hooked into 2 buckles sewn to each side of the pack near the top flaps. It was sort of like a double-sided belt.  This strap went across your forehead when wearing the pack.  We found later that this head strap, tump line, as it was called, really helped when you were loaded down with pack of 50 pounds or better. You quickly learned to apply the pressure of the pack against the top of your head, using your hands and arms to pull downward on the straps. This motion distributed the weight, by applying pressure along your spine. By repeating this action once in a while walking to take the strain off your shoulders, you were able to travel much further in relative comfort.  It was actually almost the same as taking a rest.


Once inside the Outfitting building, our Councilor and the two CITs arranged our six packs side by side in a straight single row along the floor, just in front of a counter covered with assorted food product.   They then unpacked our belongings and placed them on the floor behind each of the assigned packs. Individually they then lined the inside face of each pack opposite the straps with some of our clothing checking off the various food items on a paper list that lay on the counter. Next they began distributing the heavier objects such as pots, pans and bags of cutlery. This was followed by canned food products such as stew, beans and evaporated milk into the bottom of each pack. Over these articles went lighter items such as bags of sugar, powdered milk, orange juice mix and eggs, pancake mixes, Kraft dinner and slab bacon in a grey cloth drawstring bag. The last of the items to go in were their clothing, the two tents, toilet paper and the rest of our clothing. They did their best to pack each one based on the size and perceived strength of each of us.   We were responsible for carrying all the supplies in our six packs, as the three men would be responsible for portaging the three cedar strip canoes.

We would be out for only two nights. We had two tents, made out of a kind of stained white Egyptian cotton, one for the 6 of us and one for the three adults You learned quickly not to touch the inside surface of these tents when sleeping in the rain because it caused them to leak. But of course we all learned this lesson the hard way; we just had to verify through action what we had heard.  This was done by vigorously rubbing the area just above your cabin mate's head, and then he retaliated and soon everyone in the tent was involved and soon all would be equally soaked.

On the day of departure we rose at the normal time.  Under the supervision of our Councilor, we cleaned our individual areas of the took our early morning swim in Wigwam bay and then returned to our cabin, made our beds, secured  our belongings by locking  our trunks  and duffle bags at the foot of our beds and made our way over to the dining hall, caps and paddles  in hand ready for the adventure  ahead. The morning air was warm even though the sun was still low in the sky and filtered through the thick foliage to overhead and to the east leaving a dappled pattern of green above and in the brown earth around our feet.   A light summer breeze danced through the branches causing the leaves to flutter sporadically We passed in front of the log building on the left that housed the general office, home of Chief (Taylor Statton), Dr.Tay (his son) and Gent Carol (the camp general manager). On our right, directly across from the office was the wooden throne-like structure that had been home to Mark Robinson, the famous Park Ranger who had spent most of his adult life in these woods, he had also been actively involved in the investigation of the death of Tom Thomson. It was said that Mark would sit in this wooden chair surrounded by campers and spend hour upon hour spinning yarns of the bygone days of the park.

Breakfast always began with a singing of Grace accompanied by the pounding of a piano amplified over the PA system. We all stood at our places and sang.

"Yesterday is now a memory
Beneath tomorrows veil we cannot see
The dawn brings up more hours for work and play
Let us salute today
May we be true to all that life we see Loyal and strong that we may proudly be with joy and beauty lighting up the way masters of life today."

Once completed, the assembled group immediately sat and indulged in luke warm scrambled eggs, icy cold under cooked bacon and toast piled in the center of each table. Each individual cabin and camp section had their own tables and specific area with a Councilor seated at the table head.   A guest such as a CIT usually took the other end of the table.   We, as campers, would sit on one of two long benches on each side of the table.   On this particular morning we had the two CITs that were going on the canoe trip sitting with us.   One sat in the chair opposite the Councilor and the other joined us on the bench.   We had only met the two CITs once before, while picking and choosing canoes for the trip.


Once breakfast and announcements were behind us, we made our way out to the front of the dining hall where we assembled to sing Oh Canada and watch the raising of the Red Ensign.   Once this formality was out of the way we made our way, paddles in hand, with our Councilor and two C.I.T.s past the tuck shop, back to the outfitting building where the three canvas canoes sat loaded and ready to go at the water's edge. Our canoes were very distinctive, each was painted a distinctive bright orange colour with a contrasting two-inch thick black stripe running end to end along the gunnels.

We each took our places as assigned in each canoe, two campers and one adult.  I had the bow position with one of the CITs. Soon, we were off the sandy beach, paddling furiously and under the small bridge that leads up the stone outcropping to the nurse's station, the tennis courts and eventually to the riding stables. In moments, we were in open water and heading towards Mowatt point. The sun shone high in the southeast turning the heavens and the lake ahead of us a kind of soft and pale blue.  The touch of light morning breeze felt wonderful against our faces and bare arms.It created only the slightest ripple to the water's surface as our paddles and canoes also cut their way across its surface. Puffy white clouds interspersed themselves haphazardly and high up into the heavens across this spectrum, divided only by the light green ribbon of tree line at the horizon and lake edge.
 We could now clearly see the totem pole in the distance that formed a permanent record of the drowning and the life of Tom Thompson.    His spent body, overturned canoe, his legs tangled in fishing line, with a deep gash on his forehead had been found floating off this point.  We eventually rounded the point and headed to the north along the eastern edge of this upper arm of Canoe Lake.

To our left traveling in the same direction, was a group of American boy scouts in four shiny aluminum canoes that dazzled in the strong reflective light of the summer sun.   It was painfully obvious that none had ever taken any kind of paddling lessons. Their canoes zigzagged literally in most directions except backward, as their paddlers determinedly and frequently changed sides and tried to correct their erratic course.   Our CITs and Councilor knew all the important paddling strokes, such as the "J" stroke, and therefore never had to change side when paddling.   We soon left the novices far behind into the distance, priding ourselves on our expertise.   We also only knelled in our canoes, legs spread outward, resting against the lower side gunnels and the ribs on the bottom of the canoe.   This gave us a lower center of gravity and greater stability when paddling. We traveled for some time along a wide channel in the river that soon ended near a controlled waterfall coming from our right.  To our left was a large wooden dock about twenty feet long and over 10 feet wide moored against the bank. We pulled alongside and the center camper in each canoe jumped out and held the canoe steady against the dock.   The C.I.T.s and Councilor got out next and then began to unload our gear.  We soon discovered that that packs, that we thought were so much fun to carry before, were now massive in size and really heavy.   One by one, they helped each of us into our straps and tumpline.   They then supported the pack for a moment while we each one by one leaned forward balancing the additional weight over our small frames and then very gingerly headed off and up the well traveled trail to the new lake beyond.

Because of our diminutive size, we actually gave these large packs a perceived life of their own.   It was an incredible picture from behind when you were the last one in line. A mismatched row of five large brown (three to four foot high) packsacks each with spindly toothpick-like  legs protruding beneath, bobbing up, then down,  staggering back, then forth, on, then off, and then back on the wooded trail like toy ducks floating in rough bath water. This rag tag group, following quickly behind the three men carrying the three upside-down bright orange canoes down the irregular pathway of the portage into the distance.

You learned quickly the hard way that did not dare sit down, for if you did you could almost never get up again alone. If you tripped, or fell, you either lay there or you took of your pack off and sat on it until help came and an adult lifted back onto your feet. Everyone has taken a fall at one time or another; after all at the ripe old age of ten or eleven, the packs were now just about as big as we were.   There was one way to get back up when you were alone.   You first lay with your back on the pack close to a small sturdy tree and placed your arms through the two shoulder straps. You made sure to push the tump strap to the side.   Then, very slowly you rolled over onto your stomach.  Once in this position you would slowly work your way up onto your knees, then grabbing the trunk of the tree and slowly pulling yourself up.   Picking up your paddle at this point was usually a real challenge and could result in you falling forward onto the ground.



Once the Councilor and C.I.T.s had finished portaging the canoes, they usually walked back along the trail to look for stragglers or fallen campers.   Soon, we were all sitting or lying sprawled across our pack sacks on the departure dock.   This was Joe Lake and here there were motorboats tied up and several boats scattered across the lake.   This was the site of the Joe Lake train station, the Algonquin Hotel and the Joe Lake Portage Store. The portage store itself was the outfitter associated with the hotel at the water's edge, even so it was constructed out of cedar logs while the hotel itself was actually a multi storied stained dark wood frame building.   We had already been to the Canoe lake Portage store by canoe as an outing once before with our Councilor.  He now asked us if we wanted to stock up on any treats at the portage store before we moved on. I, in my wisdom, asked how many more portages we would have to take before we reached our campsite.   He advised only one.   I decided to wait until we got to the next portage to buy something.   In my limited frame of reference world of Canoe Lake and now Joe Lake canoe travel, there was logically a portage store situated on every portage ready to meet each hungry camper's culinary needs!

Soon our canoes were reloaded, packs and campers in place and once again we were on our way.   The light breeze now at out back seemed to give us greater speed.   At this point headed east across Joe Lake, this then took us south into Little Joe and finally northeast across Baby Joe. Along this route, we periodically passed other trippers in a wide assortment of canoes proudly brandishing their affiliated colors and logos all heading toward Joe Lake and beyond.   Here we also passed Arrowan and Arrowan Pines one last bit of civilization as we now headed to Burnt Island Lake.

Baby Joe shoreline narrowed as we approached the northeast end of the lake and our ears now picked up the distant roar of rushing water. The water table of Burnt Island lake was considerably higher than that of Baby Joe.  We headed into an opening in the tree line at the water's edge, just north of the tumbling water at the bottom of the falls and rapids. This time, the person who sat in the bow of each canoe got out first, lowering the weight in the front of the canoe enabling each of us to pull our individual canoe further up onto the beach for additional steadiness.   Then one by one we each sat facing the lake straddling each canoe, planting our feet firmly on the ground and our hands locked on the gunnels in front to add further stability. Our cabin mates, C.I.T.s and Councilor then exited each canoe by walking carefully along the center keel and by bracing themselves using their paddles.  Laying their respective paddle across the gunnels and leaning forward onto this support as they walked forward accomplished this.   

Soon we were again loaded down with packs and canoes and were off up the portage trail that edged its way away from the falls and into the thick of the forest ahead. As we walked along the trail our heads were naturally inclined downward with the tumpline across our foreheads.   This created a line of sight only a few feet in any direction.   For this reason the sounds around us became more important.  The twittering and sweet songs of the huge number of species of birds native to Algonquin Park filled the air, complemented by the sporadic buzzing of house flies, bees, horse flies, mosquitoes, dragon files and other flying insects that made the forest their home.   As the trail moved closer to the falls, the sound of roaring and rushing water would drown out all other sounds.   The face of the portage trail was hard backed form years of campers and other adventurers tramping across its surface.   Part of the reason that we all kept our heads down was for balance and to watch were you were stepping.   Being tripped up by an exposed rock or root could send you sprawling.

Once across the portage we once again took a break and I began to look for the portage store.   When by Councilor explained the situation to me, advancing my worldliness and disappointment, I finally understood that Portages were just trails between lakes and that Portage stores were few and far between and usually located by the highway to outfit campers.  With a supply of candy, I took my place in the bow of our canoe and the CIT pushed us off into a small swampy pond like area. We had arrived at Burnt Island Lake.

As we paddled forward we approached what appeared to be a channel to the right.   On the point at the left was a vacant campsite marked with wispy and ragged cedars and pines leaning out over the water's edge.  We headed for that.    The shoreline here had been cleared away and trees removed and trimmed back.   The shore area was hard packed earth and exposed rock dotted here and there with tufts of grass.   Just beyond, now visible to the eye was a large lake probably about 4 miles long, dotted with islands.   About a half a mile ahead on the right hand shore appeared to be debris and ruins of what were once docks and some sort of floating building.

The campsite was on a small island that served as a closing point for the large bay next to the portage adjacent the main lake. The campsite covered most of this island. Near the back of the island, the land mass narrowed into a strip of submerged land covered in deadfall and bull rushes.   I guessed that at one time the water level was lower and the increase in level killed off these trees many years ago.  Mixed among the rushes and barkless tree trunks were charcoal stump like remnants of much larger older trees that must have been part of the namesake fire.  At one time the Lake was known as Island Lake.

Within an hour we had our tents up and our sleeping bags and belongings in place inside in our allocated places.   Outside the councilor and CITs had laid out the food neatly on the wooden picnic table provided by the park administration that had been covered with a rubberized ground sheet.  The fire had been laid in a small circle of stones that formed a fire pit and it now spluttered and snapped into life, bringing a kettle of water to a boil that had been placed above suspended on a "Y" shaped piece of sturdy tree branch.   The branch had been cut by one of the C.I.T.s and then soaked in the lake since we arrived at the site, before burying its point into the hard-packed earth next to the fire pit.   The smoke from the fire drifted lazily into the treetops overhead, its aroma filling the air with the scent of fresh cedar and birch.

That evening we were each given a metal plate which was about 8 inches in diameter. We had a dinner of stew and mashed instant potatoes.   The meal was quite satisfying, and the orange crystals made a satisfying beverage.  

Two of the other Campers in our group did the dishes tonight.  We were able to relax by the fire drinking hot chocolate watching the fire crackle sending sparks mixed in the smoke into the evening sky. The sky soon began to darken as the sun slipped below the tree line behind the portage we came in on. On a canoe trip the campers shared the same tent. The six of us, slept side by side in our sleeping bags across the depth of the tent. We all had clothes for the 3 days of our trip and these we rolled up serving as great pillows. The Councilor and C.I.T.s shared the second tent. As soon as the sky darkened and filled with thousands of stars, we happily went to bed, eager for the adventures planned for tomorrow. We were all soon fast asleep filled with happy dreams.
 
Tomorrow came, it was a beautiful day; the sun radiating over the open lake, light dancing across the rocks laced with quartz that bordered the shoreline, interwoven with the shadows from the overhanging jack pines abundant in this area. Breakfast was soon prepared with slab bacon cut into slices and powdered scrambles eggs cooked in the bacon grease, served with toasted rye trip bread, butter and raspberry jam or peanut butter. This morning, John and I shared the duty of washing and drying the pots, cups, dishes and cutlery.  We used small amounts of dish soap and mixed with sand from the lake bottom between the outcroppings of rock, it served as great scrubbing material for removing grease from the bacon and dried powdered egg debris in the pots, and on the cutlery and metal camp plates and cups.  Once finished, John and I neatly stacked everything on the picnic table that stood next to the fire pit.

Our Councilor was now calling us all to the water’s edge.  An outing had been planned for the day by canoe into the western part of Burnt Island Lake.  The 3 canoes had been placed back into the water by the CITS and our Councilor. Ahmek Canoes were, in fact, proper 17 ft cedar strip tripping style.  They weighed over 100 lbs. apiece, painted bright orange with a black stripe just under the gunnels. The canoes got to the lake by being paddled by our group across 4 lakes and then carried across 3 portages on the shoulders of each of our guides.  They now sat in the water once again sitting side by side, with the councilor and C.I.T.s sitting across the stern of each, one leg on each side, feet in the water, each wrapped in well-worn Greb Kodiaks. This technique served to hold each canoe unmoving between your bent knees while loading passengers from the rear.  We now all piled into our designated places, 2 of us in each canoe, paddles in hand, ready for today’s adventure.

Our Councilor had advised that we were going visit 2 places today. A Ranger’s Cabin that had just burnt down last year and Camp Mimmesing. We were really quite excited.  I had the front position in our canoe.  I had already learned the basic techniques for the paddler in the front position in a canoe. The special strokes were the “bow cut” and the “cross bow cut”.  These were used when you needed a sharp turn left or right when entering fast moving water into a mainstream. To execute the first, you leaned forward with your paddle still held with your left hand on the top of the grip and your right hand just above the blade and then placed the blade along the left side of the canoe resting against its edge so the tip protruded down at right angles below the keel in front of the canoe.  As the two stern people paddled hard forward the canoe would make sharp right turn.  The “cross bow cut” was done the same way but on the opposite side of the front of the canoe.  The result was a sharp left turn. The water here was quite still and this sort of maneuver was not required. I was quite proud of being awarded this lead position in our canoe.

We now all sat quietly, kneeling just in front of our designated seats and thwarts, with our paddles resting across the gunnels just in front of us ready for the command to start paddling.  One by one the Councilor and each CIT each stood up still standing in the water and lifted each canoe one by one in order up off the rocky shore.  Resting their paddle across the gunnels for balance, each placed one foot squarely on the ribs inside the canoe just above the center keel in front of the rear seat and each in turn shoved their canoe forward out into main lake stepping into the canoe at the same time.  ‘Paddle” came the command.

We now moved through the channel between the island and the south shore of the lake. The water glistened in the bright morning sun. I watched calm surface of the blue green water where my paddle entered, breaking the surface, causing it to reflect into dozens of tiny silver dancing clusters of light so bright that you had to look away.
 
The 3 canoes travelled side by side, spaced about 5 to 6 feet apart. As we travelled out into the lake, our Councilor bantered back and forth with the 2 CITs as they reminisced about their hometowns, time at camp and canoe trips they’d enjoyed or endured.  Some of my cabin mates tried to take part in the conversation, I, like a few of the others, paddled silently, wrapped within my own thoughts, trying to anticipate what we were about to see today.  As I looked out into the lake, I could see the far shore in the distance, it was a wider lake than our Lake Bernard, but about the same length end to end.  All Islands were more rugged looking, sparse, dotted with jack pine, with large smooth rounded rock outcroppings along the peripherals. It was easy to see why they called the lake Burnt Island, all the islands in the distance actually looked like the tress had been burnt off and only a rugged few had survived and had recovered years later.  We gradually paddled along the shoreline to west and then northward.  The back of our island campsite was a full section of dead greyish, bonelike and barren of bark and leaves standing in water. 

Yesterday when we arrived, we passed a dam adjacent this end of the portage entrance to the lake.  They must have changed the water level at some point.  I now noticed a consistent amount of dead wood along all the shore edge below the thick tree line that surrounded the lake.   The solid tree line started in again, unbroken, almost 6 feet up on the north shore above the island.  Just ahead, to the right about a half mile, a small clearing broke the thickness of the trees once again. Here I could see wildflowers, grasses and weeds across the clearing. Almost directly in the center of the open space a large number charred large cedar logs protruded at odd angles here and there in what appeared to be a somewhat disorganized square pattern. In addition, the stone chimney still stood for the fireplace, as well as a burnt bed frame and remains of a wood stove and tin chimney. In front of the clearing at the shore edge still stood an unused small dock, boards still in good shape, resting on a crib of stones just above the lapping surface if the lake’s waters. A path lead through the weed and grass field about 3 feet wide winding its way to the remains of the cabin.
 
Our Councilor announced that we were looking at was indeed the Ranger’s cabin. He advised that It had caught fire last year in the winter and burned to the ground.  No doubt the carelessness of a snowshoer or cross-country skier, leaving a fire untended, and otherwise more forest would have been decimated in the process.  He told us that we would not go ashore here, because our big treat was yet to come and would occupy most of our day. 
We now turned and headed south. I hadn’t noticed anything before, but now visible on the south shore, about ½ mile to the left along the shore on the crest of the rise of the hill stood a massive log hotel building with several out buildings to the side and behind including 2 large log cabins across a large open space.   Below at the water’s edge was a fairly long board clad building that had collapsed sideways onto itself.  Below this there appeared to a large dock at the water’s edge.

As we paddled toward it you could make out more and more detail.  It had been abandoned only for a couple of years.  Our counselor told us, it was built in 1913 as a wilderness lodge for the very rich.  They would arrive in their private rail cars on the Grand Trunk Railway at the Cache Lake Hotel. From there they would begin the 16 km stagecoach trip to Burnt Island Lake.  The trial would have been a rough one, winding its way around creeks, streams and small lakes.  All supplies, gas for boats and generators, food and material would have been delivered the same way. The size of the facility certainly portrayed an opulent lifestyle.  The Grand Trunk ran the facility for about 10 years as a hotel. They rented it to Dr. Henry Sharman in 1923 and 1924. Finally he bought it  in 1925 after renting the full facility for 2 years.  He then ran the facility until the lease expired in the 1950s as a religious retreat and missionary school each summer.

We finally reached the docks; they were still in good shape.  We exited our canoes and collectively pulled them up on the dock surface turning them over, placing paddles underneath along with other superfluous materials until our return from our adventure.
We headed up the pathway to main hotel building first.
 At the front of the main level stood a large covered wrap around deck that ran from end to end.  Hand hewn weathered barkless cedar logs formed the railing and uprights in a repeated “X” pattern across the face.  It was easy to imagine heads of state, sitting out here, sipping a just delivered late night cocktail, listening to the distant cry of a loon across the lake and maybe the soft sounds of the piano playing just in the lobby, all while watching the sun setting over the lake in  the late of the day.

Everyone headed off in different directions each wanting to see something different first, our group headed up the steps to the veranda and the beckoning open double doors beyond, leading into the main lodge.  I noticed that the windows where all broken out including cross pieces leaving each a gaping hole for the elements to permeate.  We cautiously entered through the main doors moving slowing taking everything in.

This room, the lobby and reception area, ran across the entire front inside of the structure.  Here the varnished surfaces of the pine log walls and floors reflected a bright yellow glow coming from the morning sunlight cascading though the edges of some of the window openings.  The pine floors across the front quarter of the room stood badly warped and stained from the elements, unrestricted doing significant damage since that last retreat took place a few years past.  The furniture was still in place in disarray for the most part in the room but vandalized and broken. The floors were littered with flyers and brochures.  I reached down and picked up a brochure. The front page showed a male water skier being pulled across the lake dressed in out of date bathing suit by a 1940’s power boat.  Other activities were described in the brochure such as canoeing and sail boating and other things to do at Mimmesing Lodge.  It all seemed sad and surreal as I stood there now visualizing in my mind’s eye, these days gone by and trying to bring back to life these activities in what was now clearly just the residue of all the bright lights and gaiety of what once was.   I now once again moved to my own thoughts, as I walked slowing across the room toward the reception desk on the left side of the back wall, visualizing the student clerks, and their happy hotel guests deep in conversation.  Mixed images ran in my head, one of opulence in the time of the Grand Trunk guests and then the more conservative religious guests enjoying a summer bible study and retreat.  I wondered if meals would be the same, would they have water skied or just canoed and sailed. Would they have liquor served to them by waiters or just an afternoon or evening tea?  What were they like?  Were they different than me?

Directly ahead of where I stood was a wide natural cedar plank staircase with large hand hewn stripped and vanished cedar rails on both sides leading up the guest rooms above. I headed up the stairs to the landing and a wider hallway that went behind the staircase.  Above the staircase on both sides and the back was another hand-hewn varnished cedar railing with smaller cedar uprights spaced about 6 inches apart. Standing at the top of the stairs I found it darker here, the light filtering only through any open or partially open doorways to each of the guest rooms at the front of the building or on both sides of the long hallway. Here again on the floors stood the litter of several years of abandonment and neglect. I walked now to the first room on the right closest to the stairs. A metal porcelain faded “7” was screwed into the raised paneling of the upper center of the door. The door was partly open and rather than use the porcelain white stained doorknob, I just pushed the door inward.  My eyes first focused on the open window, vandalized like everything else, the glass broken out along with the inside of the frame.  Faded yellow sheer curtains, danced along the windows edge driven by the warm summer’s breezes. Moving to the left of the window opening, a wooden double bedframe stood intact in place complete with headboard stood against the corner of the room; the mattress still on the bed rotting, springs protruding.  At the opposite end of the bed, a painted dresser stood with drawers in disarray with contents spilling over or fallen on the floor below. A torn and soiled carpet covered most of the floor littered with damaged pillows, torn sheets, dirty towels, papers, and other debris.  On the right side of the window stood a sink with 2 taps on wooden frame pipes running into the floor by the wall. Just beyond this closer to me, leaning against the middle of the right wall, stood a large fabric chair severely stained and weathered by the elements, one of its rear legs missing.  I turned and, one by one, visited room after room, all were similar in set up, about half with only 1 twin bed, all about the same size.

I now headed back down the stairs to the main lobby, back into the light.  Again, my imagination taking over and trying to visualize wives, sipping tea or whatever, sitting in one of the many broker rockers that now lay scattered about, waiting for their husbands to come up the hill to the veranda.

The arrival would an event every day, the husband, beaming and smiling from ear to ear, ready for cocktails and supper with the days’ reward of 3 or more huge lake trout held high for all to envy.


Back on the main floor, I now moved through a large doorway on the right side of the reception desk that took me into the main dining room.  Here were scattered chairs, tables, broken plates and cutlery.  It was a bit like the Twilight Zone presented by Rod Sterling years later, it’s as if everyone just got up from their tables and left.  I guess when the Park lease was canceled it was probably too expensive to haul away a lot of used furniture by what could best be referred to as a logging road.  Still it seemed sad and a waste, my young mind had trouble grasping.  To the right, on the wall directly opposite where we had entered, stood a double doorway, the two doors were beaten and stained. Each had a circular glass portal in the center near the top. We walked to the doors and pushed against them. They readily opened inward and we now found ourselves standing in the entrance to the hotel kitchen.  Shelves still held a few glasses, plated, linen, etc.  The large wood burning cooking stoves were still in place but connecting pieces of chimney pipe were missing. A double doored, turn of the century oversized commercial ice box lay unceremoniously on its side against the far log wall, it top open and its vacant ice cavity exposed disintegrating and dirty.  The double steel sink and surrounding counters were still in place under the open widow on the West wall. In the middle of the floor amid the debris, a kettle lay dented on its side, mixed with old battered pots, pans, bits of rag and toweling.
Along the back wall of the kitchen area, stood a set of stairs leading to the second floor.  Just across form this, at the west side of building adjacent the sink stood the only rear access door to the outside.  This door hung open, its outside bottom edge stuck firmly into the grass and ground outside, its upper hinge broken off but still attached to the door frame.
We decided to follow the stairs to the second floor.  Surprisingly there was plenty of light at the top of the stairs, light filtered into the hall though all the open doorways along each side.  These were all bedrooms on both sides of the hallway.  These rooms were smaller than the rooms upstairs at the front of the lodge. At first we thought that they were guest rooms, then we realized that this area was completely closed off from the front area, and that these were in fact the staff bedrooms.  Again chairs, tables, dressers, bed frames, mattresses, pillows, torn sheets, blankets, books and some clothing lay in various combinations in disarray in each of the rooms. 
We now exited the main building and momentarily just stood outside taking it all in. 

The old ice house stood with its double doors open abandoned but still filled with 3 or 4 feet of sawdust just across what used to be a driveway. It now stood choked with weeds, wildflowers, tall grasses and saplings.  Up to the left behind following the road out stood the manager’s cabin. It was in perfect shape; it was obviously now being maintained as a replacement park ranger cabin.  The roadbed to the back edge of the hotel site was clear of weeds, was obviously well traveled. This smaller log cabin had all windows intact, covered inside, and its front door solid and padlocked.  We stayed away at the advice of our Councilor. We walked back toward the hotel.

Over toward the lake, just parallel to the hotel itself, stood 2 large cedar 2 story log cabins.

Each had windows and dormers running along the side nearest where we stood. The first one stood with its front door almost facing the lake.  The furthest one sat parallel to the lake so we could see that it had a single window feature as well on the upper peak above the veranda entrance.

We made our way now across the open space to the first cabin, climbed the steps onto the veranda and opened the front door.  We stood quietly, soaking in the grandeur that met us here.  

All the rooms and sitting areas were completely void of furniture, unlike the main hotel. Directly across from us stood a massive natural stone fireplace that rose straight up though the 2-story open interior. To our left and right on each side of the entrance door stood individual staircases leading to the second-floor bedrooms.  A walkway to the back of the building, with cedar side railing, ran along each side above the center sitting area and fireplace below.  There were 4 bedrooms on the main level, 2 on each side, situated behind the overhanging walkways on each side.  On entering the room, we noticed hot and cold water taps on the sinks in the corner of the bedrooms. On further inspection we found the hot water pipe ran inside the fireplace.  Our Councilor explained that the hot fire in the fireplace heated the water supply and the result was hot water in the taps…We did not remember seeing any toilets anywhere.

It was time to go. We headed down the bank now toward the dock.  Just below us to the right of the large dock area stood a weathered building made from wood slat siding and wood frame.  The roof was cedar shakes.  It had collapsed sideways away from the dock side and lay fairly flat. 

 There was no way inside, but the doors were crushed open on the shore side of the building. We gingerly walked along the shore side trying to see inside.  About midway along in the center, the door had come off its framework and now lay pinned beneath the bent and collapsed framed doorway. I decided to crawl up onto the wood frame door. It moved and cracked under my weight. In spite of my fears, I really wanted to see inside. Laying on my stomach I moved slowly forward grabbing onto the raised cross pieces as I went for stability and finally, could now see through the gap above the door edge up into the main area inside.  I could not believe my eyes, it was amazing, the darkened space was filled with crushed, bent canoes, sailboats, sails, and battered equipment. Most now lay broken, forced against the floor, solidly wedged between the collapsed roof, ceiling debris, fallen joists, the rack frames and the floor below.

I slowly edged myself back off the door and stood silently for a moment, taking it all in. Such waste, I thought, the former owners had just locked up and left.  I guessed that based on the isolation of the lodge and the cost of moving everything out, it was probably all they could afford to do.

I then turned back, looking up at the grand old lady, with her 2 large cabins off to the right side. Here and there in all three buildings, bits of torn curtain flapped in ithe window cavities as the warm soft summer breezes played in and out of the empty buildings, It was as if she was waving goodbye.  I raised my right arm and waved, then turned and focused on regaining my position in the front of our canoe. Funny, not much was said as we silently paddled away.

I visited Camp Mimmesing once again, this time with my wife in 2012. We traveled by Canoe and portage from Arowhan Pines Hotel on little Joe Lake. In my 66th year, I could still portage a canoe by myself across my shoulders over the 2 portages…still remembering all the old techniques…. Easily found on the south shore, behind a campsite, the rubble remains of the foundation of the main building as well as rusted galvanized water lines, other pieced of rusted metal, all laying among the mature trees that now covered everything, and finally the 2 chimneys of the 2 gust cabins that I had visited so many years ago. But, that’s another story.


Written by Gib Heggtveit (gib@gibandmary.com)